I had one of the most enjoyable wine experiences I’ve had in a while the other night when I met a UC Davis friend and her husband for some wine and appetizers in at Mike’s Bistro in New York. The food, as always, was delicious (pan seared sweetbreads, handmade duck gnocchi, and mushroom risotto with truffle oil) and the company was pleasant. The most remarkable part of the evening, however, was the wine.
The funny part is that the wine itself was remarkably unremarkable. It was a 2008 Borgo Reale Montepulciano. I can imagine readers thinking what a wine guy like me is doing choosing a simple country-style wine off of a fairly extensive wine list that includes some pretty serious bottles.
Here’s where the secret is. A wine doesn’t have to be an obscure knock-your-socks-off bottle to be enjoyable. Now don’t get me wrong, I love a great bottle of wine as much as the next wine guy, but sometimes drinking serious wine takes too much effort to enjoy. Serious wine is too cerebral for relaxing with friends; when I’m with friends I want a bottle I can just shut up and drink without too much analysis. No talk of berries, licorice, or cedar box. No contemplating whether the wine was aged in how many barrels of what kind of oak and for how long. No arguments over how the liquid in glass compares to the Platonic idea of Syrah or Chardonnay or whatever and definitely no numerical scores of how this wine would rate on a scale from 80-100 (because after all, that’s where just about all wines end up unless there is something really fundamentally wrong with it).
Wine was made to be drunk, especially together with food. Not every bottle worth drinking needs to be truly world class or get a certain rating from your favorite critic. It’s easy to get too caught up in all the brouhaha that surrounds wine to actually remember that from time to time. Personally, I certainly consider myself spoiled from drinking too much really good wine, which is why the simple bottle of Motepulciano I had the other night was such a wonderful reminder that simple wine with the right people and a good meal can be a great bottle too.