New and Kosher

By: Yael Hanover

The kosher market is expanding all the time as new products emerge and old products get hechshers. New and Kosher test-drives all these products so you don’t have to.

Crystal Head Vodka and Casa Noble Tequila – Attractive Home Bar Staples

Friday, May 27th, 2011

I studied English at a party school, so this article is going to utilize everything I learned in college – writing and drinking.  I’m going to go ahead and give myself an A+ in responsible drinking as I have only had about 2 ounces of liquor and I don’t even have a driver’s license.  The subjects of my very accountable revelry were Casa Noble Tequila and Crystal Head Vodka.  The latter may be familiar as its premier promotional material went viral shortly after launch.

I know when I first saw the infomercial, it took me a full four minutes to realize Dan Aykroyd was serious.   For a man who made a name for himself with his priceless deadpan delivery of smarty-pants dialogue, pulling a prank about liquid joy in bottles inspired by alien heads would just be par for the course.  Turns out Beldar Conehead knows a thing or two about the spirits found in paranormal crania.  Makes sense.

Crystal Head Vodka promises to be “silky and smooth.” It delivers.  As a chilled shot, it goes down easy with little aftertaste.  It leaves pleasant warmth, but none of the shocking burn that can be associated with lesser quality vodkas. Crystal Head is “triple diamond filtered,” which yields its level texture and clean taste and makes it very enjoyable neat.  A complicated cocktail would hide the quality of Crystal Head’s flavor, but it’s great with a simple mixer.  If bitter is your thing, a Crystal Head Vodka Tonic would surely satisfy.  I prefer sweeter drinks and quite enjoyed a Crystal Head screwdriver.  While the packaging and marketing might be a little off the wall,  Crystal Head produces a genuine, high quality product with great versatility.

I went into tasting Casa Noble more wearily because I am not really a tequila drinker.  Thankfully, ehow.com has me covered.  I followed ehow’s handy instructions and found that like it’s clear counterpart, Casa Noble is very smooth.  It is not, however, nearly as light and drinkable.  What Crystal Head boasts in simplicity, Casa Noble has in complexity.  The agave from which Casa Noble is distilled presents first followed by a citrus finish.  All of this carried in a texture that borders on syrupy.  It was not in the least bit unpleasant, just less of a protractible experience.  I could take a few shots of Crystal Head Vodka (if I were still in college).  A half shot of Casa Noble got the point across.

Casa Noble’s complicated flavor also presented a bit of a challenge when it came to mixers – to dilute it too heavily would counteract the subtleties of its essential elements, but its multifaceted savor is bold enough to compliment a comparable mixer.  I found a satisfying partner for Casa Noble in Boylan’s ginger ale with a squeeze of lime.  The bitterness and zing of the ginger played nicely off the agave and lime and tequila go together like, well, like lime and tequila.  The result was a pleasing cocktail with a striking flavor.

Casa Noble Tequila and Crystal Head Vodka represent two different sides of the liquor spectrum.  Casa Noble offers intricate notes of southwestern agave and citrus, while Crystal Head presents the lucid purity of a Newfoundland aquifer.  They are both superior products produced using the foremost techniques in the field and make great special-occasion liquors at about $50 a bottle for 750 ml.  Keeping your home bar stocked with a bottle of each, plus a good bottle of scotch would keep any crowd happy and you the most popular host in town.  Cheers!





Veggie “Cream” Cheese

Wednesday, May 4th, 2011

I have to apologize; I’ve had this review lined up for almost a month. Shortly after Galaxy Nutritional Foods’ Veggie “Cream” Cheese Alternative arrived in my house, I came down with a cold and then the congestion just lingered. I couldn’t taste anything; a terrible predicament for a food reviewer. Like a pitcher with a broken arm, I was sidelined. And then came Pesach and a hearty helping of Maror at the Seders fixed me up, but quick. Play ball!

I have a multifaceted relationship with parve substitutes for dairy or meat items. Admit it, we all do. We want them to be good. We hope the consistency will be right, that the flavor won’t have that artificial aftertaste. Generally, though, we prepare for disappointment. Faking it is hard. Especially if the product isn’t dressed up in a bunch of spices a la soy taco stuffers or tons of sugar and flavorings like in frozen creamy desserts.

I have to give Veggie an “A” for effort. They really try. As a spread, though, their cream cheese substitute just misses the mark. The consistency is too soft and the product has very little flavor of its own. The Garlic and Herb variety gains the “soy taco” advantage of being full of flavor from the garlic and herbs that give it its name, but maintains the disappointing plastic, too soft texture. The texture is about halfway between margarine and cream cheese and it feels more like margarine in the mouth. Since it is an oil-based formula, that’s not surprising. The formulation is also responsible for Veggie’s nutrition values being closer to margarine than cream cheese. Real cream cheese has twice the protein and contains calcium, which Veggie does not.

While Veggie falls short as a bagel topper, it is a surprisingly good baking substitute. I tried the plain flavor in a parve cheesecake (recipe below) and was quite satisfied with the results. It melts and combines nicely and bakes pleasantly firm. I could tell that the end result was parve, but that’s not a bad thing. Dairy cheesecake is often far too rich and heavy. Just as I can’t sit down and eat six ounces of plain cream cheese, I don’t feel compelled to eat a slice of cheese cake. I really can only take a few bites at a time before I want to just spread a little bit of it on a graham cracker. My Veggie parve version did not give me that feeling. It was sweet and a little bit rich but light enough to not be overwhelming.

So, if you’re looking for something parve to put on a bagel, I would say Veggie is not the right choice. Go for hummus, avocado spread or even just peanut butter or a good margarine like Earth Balance. Nutritionally, they are all better choices than Veggie. Hummus is low fat, but higher in protein, avocado is packed with healthy fats as is peanut butter, which has the added bonus of plenty of protein and Earth Balance includes DHAs and Omega fatty acids. If you want to make a parve cheesecake, then Veggie is the way to go. Its light flavor and malleable texture make it ideal for baking. The lack of flavor prevents an otherwise too-rich dessert from becoming overwhelming and the soft consistency makes it easy to mix. I was really happy with how the parve cheesecake turned out. Here’s what I did –

First, I made a crust out of 1 cup of crushed walnuts (Thank you, Pesach leftovers), 1/3 cup of sugar and 1/3 cup of margarine. I blended this together until it was combined. Then I put about a tablespoon and a half of the mixture into each cup of a muffin tin and flattened out the mixture. I put it in the oven at 350 degrees while I made the cheesecake.

The cheesecake was an adapted recipe because I only had 8 ounces of Veggie cream cheese. I combined it in a saucepan with 4 ounces of tofutti sour cream, ¼ cup of sugar, a teaspoon of lemon juice, and half a beaten egg. I mixed it together over low heat until it was completely combined. Once the cheesecake mixture was done, the piecrust bases were also. I took them out of the oven and poured the cheesecake mixture over them. I put them back in the oven and baked at 350 for about 25 minutes. I left them on the counter to cool then transferred them to the refrigerator. Once they were totally cool, they popped right out of the muffin tins…and into my belly.





How do you say “Heimish,” in Afrikaans?

Thursday, March 24th, 2011

Joburg’s traditional South African fare has a tasty future in kosher kitchens.

Whenever my doorbell rings, my dog freaks out.  Blueberry runs to the door barking, placing herself firmly between me and the approaching visitor.  Her loud bark makes her presence known, discouraging ninjas and other would-be attackers from carrying out their nefarious plans.  Her violently wagging tail, however, betrays the true motivation that drives her dramatic greeting; Blueberry hopes that whoever has rung the bell has brought her something delicious.  It’s not an unfounded hope.  Once a week she frolics through the living room gleefully sticking her nose into the grocery bags, just knowing she’ll get bits of whatever is in there once it’s cooked.  Today her dream just might have come true – I got a box of sausages and dried beef.  Ultimately, though, Blueberry would be disappointed, because it was all too good to share.

As Blueberry navigated her roller coaster of canine emotions, I examined the bounty.  The package contained Biltong and Boerewors. Gezuntheit.  Or, should I say “Mag God jou seen,” which is Afrikaans for “G-d bless you.”  And since both products are Glatt Kosher, I certainly think He gives His approval.  Joburg produces authentic, Glatt Kosher traditional South African cuisine.  The company was started by David Libesman, a South African born Jew who delighted his American friends by serving them his favorite native foods.  By putting his products on the market, he may very well delight you, too.  I was certainly impressed.

I tried the Biltong first.  I was particularly impressed with it because like beef jerky, it offers a shelf-stable, protein rich snack.  Unlike beef jerky, it has a very reasonable sodium content (just 150 mg per serving).  It is also lean (97% fat free), and slowly dried which gives it a texture unique from American beef jerky.  Jerky beef is first saturated in savory marinade and then cooked.  A bite of jerky floods the pallet with the flavor of the marinade.  Biltong offers the same satisfying robustness and beefy flavor without the aggressiveness delivered by jerky.  Biltong was chewy at first bite, and then softened as I processed it.  It is lightly spiced to enhance the flavor of the beef without overshadowing it.  When I ate the Biltong I thought, “That is tasty beef,” instead of “Yum, teriyaki!” I would have been content to finish the whole thing off on its own, quite honestly, but Libesman suggests trying his Biltong in a salad.  I figured that he’s the professional, I should heed his advice.

Biltong’s flavor reminds me of a good burger or roast beef, so I kept that in mind as I prepared the salad.  I put together simple ingredients that would play off the Biltong; I wanted it to be the main feature of the dish.  I tossed a handful of Biltong with dark greens, cherry tomatoes, red onions and a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  It was a quick, easy, healthy lunch with unique and robust flavor.

For dinner, I made the Boerewors or “Farmer Sausage.”  Once again, Joburg introduces its audience to a different way to eat beef without overshadowing the flavor of good beef.  Boerewors is spiced in a perfect balance – just enough to create an exciting dish, but not enough to outshine the flavor of the beef.  The simplicity of the spicing also makes Boerewors very versatile.  I grilled mine on the George Foreman and then served it in onion buns with spicy mustard and French fries on the side.  I tried another with no condiments, and plated it with grilled vegetables.  I chose sweet vegetables to play up the savory quality of sausage.  Onions, peppers and zucchini made for a colorful compliment.  Boerewors would have also been delicious diced in an omelet or served with pancakes as a breakfast sausage (at any time of day.  I believe in breakfast for dinner).  The ease of preparation and flexibility of flavor, plus the fact that it freezes well and can be cooked without defrosting, make this a great protein to have on hand.  At 21g per serving, it’s on the fattier side, so while it’s not healthy enough to be a diet staple, it makes quite a treat.

Joburg brings exciting flavors to the kosher market with its Boerewors and Biltong.  The former is a novel departure from hot dogs or sausages, the latter a healthy alternative to beef jerky.  They are both handy proteins – Boerewors cooks up easily and Biltong is ready right out of the bag.  They were both so tasty that, unfortunately for Blueberry, I didn’t leave a scrap behind.  Maybe she’ll get lucky and tomorrow a ninja will pop by for tea.