The Kosher Kritic’s Korner

By: Daniel Douek

Daniel may have completed his undergraduate studies at Yeshiva University, but he is still a student of great cuisine. By day he is a mild mannered employee at a large and growing internet company. By night he is a kosher restaurant critic with strong stances and an outspoken demeanor. He is, the Kosher Kritic.

Basil Pizza & Wine Bar

Sunday, March 6th, 2011

Basil Pizza & Wine BarPreviously on the Kosher Kritic I wondered, “Given that there is so much bad pizza out there, where can you go to score a good slice?”  In that post I reviewed Rosa’s Pizza – a Pizzeria in the Empire State Building – and concluded that in a casual atmosphere you’d be hard pressed to beat Rosa’s. That’s all well and good, but what if you’re looking for a more intimate setting? To that end I set out to investigate Basil Pizza & Wine Bar, the trendy pizza place in that trendiest of neighborhoods, Crown Heights. And, just to make sure the setting was intimate enough, I went there on a date, but you’re not interested in hearing about that (and if you are, well then, hi MOM!).

A few months back a small publication wrote an article about Basil’s attempts to bridge a fractured society. While that may work for the New York Times (whatever that is), I wanted to delve into Basil purely as a restaurant (I’m a food critic not a sociologist). It is with that mindset that I made the trip out to Crown Heights.

Standing in front of the restaurant, I was struck by how starkly Basil’s modern aesthetic contrasts its surroundings. It has a beautifully paned front window revealing exposed bricks (a Kosher Kritic favorite), a rear wall that doubles as a wine case, and dazzling blown glass light fixtures. My only gripe, and it is admittedly a small one, is that the space is a bit cramped, with tables closer together than would be ideal – chalk it up as the price of popularity.

We were seated quickly and took our time mulling over the large selection of thin crust pizzas. We ultimately settled on “Margherita” and parmesan & white asparagus pies (narrowly edging out the Bosc pear & blue cheese). As an appetizer we had an order of Basil Fries, which were outstanding – perfectly crispy with a smooth center and topped with just the right amount of salt and parmesan – an absolute must have. The parmesan & white asparagus pie, which was also topped with onions, roasted peppers, and smoked paprika, was very good, but the “Margherita,” featuring homemade mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and delicious pesto in lieu of tomato sauce, really stole the show.

To cap off a great meal we ordered tiramisu, which was amazing,  and lavender dusted funnel cake, which was as delicious as it sounds, though the basil ice cream it came with was a bit less successful.  The meal came in just over sixty dollars, including the tip, which is outstanding, considering the quality of the food and the atmosphere.  I can’t speak to Basil’s success in unifying a disparate community, but I can tell you that it has some of the best and most unique pizza around.

Basil Pizza & Wine Bar
270 Kingston Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11213

(718) 285-8777



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Golan In The Heights

Thursday, December 9th, 2010

Hi.

I am the new Kosher Kritic. I felt I should open this blog by introducing myself. So….

Hi.

I am the new Kosher Kritic.

For my first review in this position (I have previously written featured reviews for Blossom and Ariel’s Kosher) I decided to go to Golan Heights, an old favorite from my college days (that’s right, I went to College. Impressed?) when I would stumble in at 1 in the morning fresh out of the library (Hi Mom) badly in need of some good comfort food.

Golan Heights, located on Amsterdam Avenue between 186th and 187th, is a classic Middle Eastern restaurant in every sense of the phrase. From the food – an extensive collection of Mediterranean delicacies available in a laffa (soft doughy flatbread), pita, or on a platter – to the atmosphere – the bustling crowds, the Israeli ordering system (read: yelling as loud as you can), the entirely exposed kitchen, and that distinct “we’ve been cooking schwarma in here all day” smell – to the prices and portions – reasonable and overwhelming.

I know what you’re thinking – “I get that it is a schwarma place, I actually figured that out from the name believe it or not, but how about you tell me if it’s worth my time!” We’re getting there. I’ve been eating at Golan for almost six years now, and I’ve had almost everything on the menu – no small feat. You can order arguably the best schwarma laffa in the city (as huge as it is succulent) or you could be a bit more adventurous and order teriyaki chicken – grilled juicy dark meat pieces that are my personal favorite.and If you’re not feeling particularly Middle Eastern you can order a hot dog pita (only four dollars!) or “Zaidi’s Nuggets,” spicy fried chicken on loan from the late Ari’s Deli. If you’re there on a Thursday night make sure you try the chulent, and if you’re lucky enough to be there on one of those glorious days where they have lamb shish kabobs disregard everything I have said until now and order that instead.

This is only the tip of the iceberg but this review is running long so let me sum it up. Golan Heights is the ultimate comfort restaurant. You don’t go everyday (college kids excluded) and you don’t go on a date; you go there cause you’re hungry, it’s close, the food is great and it’s reasonably priced.

Golan Heights
2553 Amsterdam Avenue
New York, NY 10033
(212) 795-7842



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Quick and Casual Lunch Options

Friday, January 15th, 2010

I walked into “NY Lunchbox” located at 255 W. 36th St. and immediately felt like I was in a hot spot on Ben Yehuda St.  Being that I eat in non-Kosher restaurants, I don’t always get the Jewish experience I did on that cold winter day. 

Let me set the scene: 

I walked in, there was a crazy long line leading to the register and a woman standing near me was talking on her cell phone; asking her friend, Rifki, what she wanted for lunch.   Before the woman placed her order (and Rifki’s), the woman in front of her studied the soups of the day and loudly asked, “Is the soup hot?”  I mean, where else on Earth do people ask if the soup is hot other than in a kosher place? I felt my grandmother’s presence with me at that moment.  She liked soup – HOT – too. 

The place itself is no frills.  I sort of felt like I was in a Jewish office and this was our commissary.  Or that I was in an airport and this was the one and only kosher kiosk.  The way it works when you get to Lunchbox is you stand in line, order and take your food out the door.  Or, you put your food on a tray and take it upstairs.  There is no so sign indicating where the line starts and the place is organized chaos at its best.  Soups, sandwiches, sushi, salads and amazing lunch deals are some of the things you’ll find on the menu.  You’ll also find a several people washing their hands, saying Birkat or davening Mincha — things I always appreciate and truly cherish when I’m in a kosher restaurant.  For that, I loved the place; however, I’m not rushing to pack my lunchbox there again anytime soon.  For under $10 I got their signature wrap, a drink and small salad.   I wish they let you mix and match your wraps because there were a few I wanted to try.  Whatever wrap you choose, you have to take both halves of it, which seemed silly to me.  In any event, the wrap itself was amazing.  It was sweet and soft and just out of this world.  What was inside it (tofu and veggies) was just so-so.   Overall, the experience was pleasant and their prices won’t break your break the bank.

On a day I didn’t feel like going anywhere to grab something to eat, I ordered in from Gan Asia.  I was really in the mood for chicken pad thai, so I ordered the dish their Web site claims to be a Thai favorite and steamed vegetable dumplings.  The dumplings weren’t cooked enough, so they were disappointing.  The pad thai was OK, but nothing special.  It was sweeter than I’ve had before, but it didn’t send me over the moon.  I’ve had other dishes from Gan Asia before (like their lemon chicken and chicken and broccoli — both were amazing!)  So, next time, I’ll skip the pad thai are go for what I know is great.  They’re lunch deals are awesome, though, so check it out in case you’re not into pad thai to begin with.

KK

Click here for the Lunchbox listing

Click here for the Gan Asia listing



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Olympic Pita a Bust

Tuesday, December 15th, 2009

On a Sunday afternoon, I decided to go to Olympic Pita for a late lunch/early dinner.  Breakfast and lunch make brunch, so I guess you could call this a lunner or a dinch?  Anyway, you know I like to say it how it is and all I can say after my meal at Olympic Pita is this place is a 5 out of 10 at best.  Formerly known as Baraca, Olympic Pita is located at 58 W. 38th Street between 5th and 6th.  So where do I begin?  The hummus was fine.  The babaganoush was fine.  The salad bar was fine.  The schwarma and fries were … you guessed it … just fine.  Nothing I ate was exciting or worth the calories.  Everything needed more flavor.  With that being said, if you love Middle Eastern food, but don’t like too much going on in terms of spices, you will LOVE Olympic Pita because everything is super bland.

The service was subpar, but comedic.  I explained I had never been to the restaurant before and the waitress was semi-helpful when it came to what I should order; however, when I went to the salad bar and came back with four different cabbages on my plate, it took several attempts before someone could tell me the difference between each one.  It turns out I had two cabbage medleys on my plate and two different coleslaws.  One coleslaw had mayonnaise and the other didn’t.  One cabbage had a lot of vinegar and the other one had less.  It wasn’t rocket science, although one waiter told me, “Two of them are red and two of them aren’t.”  Wow, thanks! I thought to myself.

The ambiance was fine, but nothing stood out as super romantic or cozy.  It was a cute place to go if you’re on a casual date or meeting up with a friend.  I’d say the place had a chic look and nice mood lighting starting around 5 p.m. The portions were very good for the price and I highly recommend getting the sampler for the appetizer because you get three little sides with the laffa bread, which is Olympic Pita’s version of a big pita.  Because I got to the restaurant before 4:30, I got to order from the lunch menu.  I ordered chicken shawarma and fries.  The portion was perfect, but it wasn’t worth finishing everything on my plate because everything tasted just OK.  The salad bar with all of the pickles, cabbages, slaws and olives reminded me of an old Jewish deli.  Had there been desserts spinning around in a refrigerator I would’ve thought I was in a Kosher diner for sure.  Alas, there were no spinning desserts, but I have to say, there was nothing on the menu that stopped me in tracks, either.   They have a huge sushi bar, tons of shish kebabs and if I had to do it all over again, I’d order the shawarma in a sandwich opposed to on a plate.  Perpaps the falafel would’ve been a better route.  I’ll keep it in mind for next time. It wasn’t bad by any means, so try it if you’re in the hood.  It’s a good deal.  Just don’t expect to be blown away.

KK

Click here for the Olympic Pita restaurant  listing



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Estihana, Here I Come

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

Estihana located at 221 W 79th St., is one of my favorite kosher restaurants; but, before I get to the incredible menu, let me say this: You must have very thick skin to order take out or delivery from this place!  Lamah? (Why?) You ask. Because when you call, you must be prepared for the main guy who answers the phone to treat you like you’re a telemarketer. Yes, that’s right. When you call to order food the guy basically acts as though HE just sat down to eat dinner with his family and YOU are ruining it!  He seems so agitated when he takes your order that he makes you feel like you phoned someone that is on the “Do Not Call” list.   But don’t worry.  There are one or two people who work there who are polite when they answer the phone.  And if you get the guy I’m talking about, you’ll come to terms with the fact that it’s not you — it’s him — and you’ll be able to refocus on what you want to order within seconds.

What you need to know next is that waiting for your food will be worse than placing the call for it.  But trust me, once you get your meal, you’re going to want to savor every bite.  You’re going to want to hold onto your fork for dear life –not just because the entrees are so expensive — but because the food is just that good.  Let me put it to you this way:  Have you ever gone to a restaurant, fallen in love with a dish and then went back to order the same thing — only to feel like it wasn’t as good as the first time?  That will never happen to you at Estihana.  I always feel like whatever I order is even better than I remembered it.

When it comes to appetizers, the egg rolls are my favorite. They are packed with flavor and cooked to perfection.  You can skip the salads with ginger dressing.  The dressing is watery and bland.  And if you love steamed dumplings, the dumplings at Estihana are just so-so.

If you’re in the mood for a chicken dish for dinner, you must get the Gomatori.  Think large chunks of white chicken meat, fried and cooked in the world’s sweetest and most addicting sauce.  The pepper steak is so incredible that after you’ve taken your last bite you’ll be craving it for a week.  And when it comes to dessert, the chocolate chip cookie explosion cake/ice cream combo will hit the spot.

I’m not going to lie. This place is pricey. But Kosher food in NYC just doesn’t come cheap. With that said, I give Estihana an 8 out of 10.

So, that’s all from me for now.  Let me know what you think is a must and what’s a bust when you check out Estihana!

Happy Noshing,

KK

Click Here for the Estihana Listing



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